Open since 1929, Swedish Bakery remains the queen of bakeries and there isn't anyone in this neighborhood who doesn't know about it. You don't have to be Swedish to be attracted to the cardamom braids, marzipan-draped "princess" tortes or "custard cup" sweet rolls, but it does help if you like butter. Eating Swedish Bakery's goods makes you realize other bakeries have been skimping. Cookies come in shapes and flavors you don't find anywhere else in town. Go early in the day, especially near any holiday -- some of the most popular pastries and breads disappear by afternoon.